Rossetti Costumes & Bridal Gowns - FAQ

Please see the Tutu FAQ for tutu enquiries.

 
Do you have (for example) "the Mediaeval gown in a size 16?"
Most gowns are made-to-measure to order to fit the customer's individual measurements. Ex-sample gowns are shown in the sample sale category. A ready-to-wear collection of very special unique one-off gowns in defined sizes (bust, waist, hip etc.) can be found on this site now - please consult the menu bar on the left or use the link on the home page.

Are your gowns made-to-measure, couture, or ready-made? I don't understand the difference!
Yes, it can seem complicated - especially when everyone uses these terms differently! I am a couture designer/ dressmaker. A "couturier" and "costumier". I make gowns to fit you, to your own individual measurements and requirements. I cut an individual pattern for each client. To some people, especially the ambitious self-taught dressmaker, offering a 'couture' service simply means a highly priced dress and will not give any indication of an exacting knowledge of real couture techniques! Or the term will be added to what are in actual fact factory-made gowns where the makers never meet the client or have the responsibility for an entire gown.

In between these extremes are the small design studios of well-known "names" in the bridal world - often staffed with dedicated roles for pattern cutter, assistant makers/ machinists and hand finishers. The staff are supplied with sketches and measurements, rarely meet the brides, and never have the satisfaction of seeing the finished gown on the client. This is classed as couture, but the irony is, the better known the designer, the less likely the actual makers are to meet the client for face-to-face "hands-on" fittings. Conversely, in the (professional)theatre world, it is accepted that no matter how famous the dancer or actor may be in the world of ballet, film theatre or television, they do need to actually be handled directly by the pattern/ cutter maker of their costume (in collusion with the designer). Inevitably, the performer can then make direct requests to the maker who is appreciated as a skilled craftsperson - actually leading to a far more realistically "couture" service. From my experience of both these worlds, I hope I am able to combine the best aspects. In a studio, fashion house or production wardrobe, making gowns and costumes is a collaboration between many people. Instead, under the "Rossetti" label I am taking full responsibility myself for your order, I have total control in my position as designer, cutter, maker and finisher. I hope this assures you that I can translate your ideas and dreams into a reality.

The world of men's tailoring uses these terms differently, so don't be thrown if your fiancé is ordering a 'bespoke' suit. This is as good as it gets - cut and made to his measurements. 'Made to measure' in tailoring means taking a pre-existing pattern and adjusting it to fit the groom. For a wedding dress this is the major part of a couture service- 'made-to measure' means taking around twenty measurements to cut a fresh pattern to fit each individual bride. (This is commonly what Americans refer to as bespoke!!!) Literally, 'couture' is defined as "high fashion design and dressmaking", but it has come to represent a particular quality of cut, fabrics, decoration and standard of workmanship - and an inevitable cost for that work. I supply the highest quality of couture work - including at times such detailing as embroidering over hooks and bars to hide the metal and match the fabric, or covering press-studs with chiffon, but this is an extreme. As long as I meet you a minimum of once and ideally three times, I can promise a well-cut and finished gown. The only difference between my period/ theatre costumes and wedding gowns is that the bodices of the costumes are not lined. (See the Princess Florine/ "Bluebird" tutu sample to see the typical inside of a costume).

Can I change details of designs shown on the web site for my own wedding dress or ballet costume?
By all means - the designs shown are representative of what is possible, and to give an idea of relative costs.  Details like colour, fabric, sleeve length, intensity of decoration can all be varied at the client’s request.

Can I have an exact copy of any design shown in every detail?
Usually!  However be warned that occasionally trimmings - lace and braids -are discontinued and, very rarely, certain fabrics.   An alternative to the original, or a very similar item can usually be found.  I often source unique antique decoration - buttons, lace, fabric flowers which are inevitably suited to exclusive one-off designs.

Can you make a gown from my own sketch?
Yes - I was originally trained in "Design Interpretation" - the skill of evolving a two dimensional design source into a three dimensional creation. In the theatre this means working as a maker,liaising between the designer and the director. A costume maker works FOR the designer who answers to the director. I worked with a variety of well established designers in the film and theatre world. They varied greatly in their ability to put their designs on paper in a readable manner. Some designers provided a clear and clinical view of the required costume, together with source material if it was a period costume. Others - particularly the ballet designers - gave more of a "sense" of the image in their head on paper - the colour and overall effect, but no specifics as to shape. Some designers only really clarified what they wished for after several prototypes had been constructed. Sometimes a costume was lost at the last minute during a dress rehearsal...

The position is quite different working as a bridalwear designer/maker - I have free rein to invent and follow my inspirations. You may like them and wish for a copy, or a variation. Or you might not see what you are looking for, yet have the feeling from what you have seen of my work that I could provide it. This is what I call a "blank canvas" commission. I will invent a fresh design in close communication with you. I am as happy to give you my designs as to work with yours - or to combine both.  I would never need a perfectly finished  design drawing to explain what you are looking for- just a sketch which hints at what you want - this would be clarified in later discussion and I would usually provide you with design sketches of my own to enure we were on the same track.  Anything you provide as reference material would be helpful, from referencing costumes in films such as "Marie Antoinette", "Elizabeth", "Moulin Rouge" or "Dangerous Liaisons", to original costume drawings you may have or cuttings from modern bridal wear magazines. Please note I will not make copies of other designer's work, however a "storyboard" of your own tastes (likes and dislikes!) in shape and colour can be extremely useful to understand the effect you are after.

(NB Please refer to Designer's Notes, below, for more on having your own design developed.)

Do you make bridesmaids?
Occasionally and mainly for adults.  Some styles of gown, such as the "Mediaeval" shape, and at the other extreme, an 18th century shape,lend themselves to simplification for bridesmaids while remaining in keeping with the bride’s own gown.

Do you make groom’s outfits?
Very rarely.  I specialise in ladies costume and dress, but my early training included men’s costume. I have been known to attire the occasional Mediaeval Knight or "Oberon", the King of the Fairies!  I can order fabric for groomsmen or bridesmaids for an alternative maker to work with.

Are you a trained dressmaker?
I trained on a course designed to provide professional and expert costume makers for television (mainly BBC), films (mainly period costume movies), West End productions: ballet, opera, musicals ("Phantom", "Starlight Express", "Les Misérables", etc, and plays (RSC and The National). We learned to cut patterns to fit individual actors/ dancers and to construct period costume for most eras from initial design through to the completed costume (see "Experience File" category on menu for more detail).  The training was of the highest standards, suitable for productions by top ballet, opera, television and film companies.  I later worked with couture bridalwear designers, learning additional skills of cut and finish.  None of this can be referred to as "dressmaking".  A typical couture bridal gown’s bodice will have a minimum of six layers of fabrics, including specialist interlining’s and boning to create the required shape.  Brides are often amazed to find they have a waistline! This would not be achieved by "dressmaking".

On a couple of occasions, visiting clients have expressed surprise at the quality of workmanship and clean finish. I fear there might occasionally be a misconception that a fifty percent theatre-based career would lead to less than the very best of workmanship in my wedding gowns. On the contrary, world class quality costumes are demanded for world class film, and theatre productions. (When I made a costume for a well-known actress at the RSC the stunning duchesse satin was shipped in from Italy and the actress was so pleased with the costume she arranged to purchase it to wear to a BAFTA awards ceremony).

All wedding gowns have silk lined bodices as a norm. Skirts are all interlined so that seams are almost invisible. Next-to-the-skin linings can also be in silk but most clients request anti-static linings for comfort against tights and stockings. I offer almost invisible hand-stitching and french seams of less than one eighth of an inch in sheer fabrics such as chiffon and georgette. Beading is attached invisibly, yet strongly. (You would not wish several swarovski crystals to cut through a single thread and crash to the floor mid-vows)!

If you have any doubts about the quality of my work, please arrange to view it in person. You never lose the "need" to work to the highest possible standards: it is an absolute.

Are corsets uncomfortable to wear?
See additional information about eighteenth century corsets attached to the "Patchwork" corset page. (See 'Corsets /Stays' on menu")
Not if fitted and constructed correctly  -see above.

Many of your prices are quoted "plus fabric" on the site. How can I tell how much my wedding dress will cost?
On the whole, I tend to keep construction costs seperate - this way you can see how a gown's costs will vary according to the fabric you choose. I can usually give you a reasonable idea of possible fabric costs at the consultation (or even beforehand if you know the specific fabric you would like to be used). I will give you an accurate quote within days of the consultation. I will guide you towards fabrics which will work for the design you are considering, and will definitely say if a fabric is inappropriate and will not work.

How long does it take to make a wedding dress?
If made non-stop, a basic gown would take about a week of working un-interrupted eight hour days. This does not include foundation petticoats and hoops, decoration or intricate detailing.  It is something of an urban myth that a wedding gown should take months and months to complete; perhaps this idea has arisen from the tradition of gowns being made by the bride herself, or by a self-taught friend or relative who constucts the dress alongside a day job. It would be wonderful to spend so long, but to be honest, apart from not being commercially practical, I naturally work at great speed when I am most enthused by a fresh design. (it is when I am making reproductions of the same style over and over,although a compliment when a particular design is popular, and even more so if no variation is requested, that always leads to my slowing down!) With new designs or fresh treatments of old ones, I am all fired up and impatient to see the end result! In no way does this affect the quality of the work produced. When I worked for several couture designers in central London while gathering experience, it was recorded how many orders you completed in a season: you had no option but to speed up techniques without lowering standards. There would always be someone faster waiting to step into your shoes!

How long does it take to make a tutu?
Three days for a basic undecorated one. (See Tutu FAQ).

Can you ship gowns and costumes overseas?
I now only ship wedding gowns within the UK. It is usually preferable to combine a collection with a final fitting. On occasion, overseas clients - from Ireland, Scotland, Jersey, Holland and Canada have managed to fly into Stansted airport, which is not too far away. Their order has been constructed from toile to completion within the duration of their holiday. Two weeks would usually be sufficient! This kind of arrangement is dependant on a lot of open discussion and brainstorming by e-mail and telephone in advance of the first meeting. The "softer" shapes of tutu including the "Euro" and "Romantic" styles without hoops can be boxed up.  A typical flat "pancake" style tutu cannot be shipped.

Can I have a tutu in any colour?
There are about forty or more colours available in stiff tutu net and many more if you are requiring a costume in softer net. (White net is very popular because a basic white tutu can be put to many uses by changing the bodice and skirt decoration. It can be the basis for an "Odette", "Sugar Plum Fairy", "Snow Queen", "Cinderella" or "Aurora". See Tutu FAQ).

Can I cancel a consultation appointment with less than two hours notice and then expect to visit again later?
If over the telephone, directly to me, then yes. If by email, then frankly, no. If you choose to waste my time once by not up-dating me on your intentions to waste an appointment, it will no doubt happen again. Please, please make sure you actually speak to me to cancel an appointment and preferably give me 24 hours warning. I realise you cannot plan for all eventualities - cars break down, endless traffic jams occur, trains are cancelled. If I am expecting you at a specific time I will be in the studio, by the phone and in hearing of the doorbell/ knock. It is not enought to cancel by email. Not all emails get through! And if I am on the computer, checking to see if you have cancelled with less than 24 hours notice, how can I be greeting you at the front door when you arrive? Apologies to those of you with manners - this is not relevant to you!

Can you deal with overseas orders?
Only if there is the possibility of you visiting the United Kingdom for approximately two weeks during which I could meet you for fittings at the begining and end of that time period. (Together with your ability to pay in UK pounds Sterling).

Can I bring my best friend/ fiancé/ mother/ bridesmaids to the fitting?
If at all possible it is always preferable to come alone to the initial design consultation. I can get a clearer idea of exactly what you would like if I am dealing purely with your own wishes on a one-to-one basis. More than your own opinion in the room can lead to lengthy complications design-wise and sometimes achieve nothing. You are welcome to bring additional people to later fittings - I would be grateful if this is pre-arranged with myself prior to the fitting date.

When I first made my work available as a portfolio on the internet, I was frequently paid the compliment of brides requesting a particular style with no variations, perhaps beyond the colour. In some ways it proved less than a challenge because all the design work had been done, and all I had to do was construct a perfectly fitting gown. As the years have gone on, I am more and more frequently asked if I will follow a bride's own design ideas rather than my own. It can be a slightly odd request, because I find it difficult to believe that absolutely nothing on this entire web-site might come close to what a bride might be looking for. I know I have major gaps - the few "Jane Austen" period gowns I have made are not shown. Nor are the kind of unembellished simple modern gowns which do not really interest me, for instance. With sufficient investigation it often turns out that the site does include something comparable to what is in the client's head - a bodice shape here, and a sleeve there. I am happy to mix and match, within reason. I also constructed many different shapes and styles years ago, (period riding jackets, empire-line gowns and 1920's flapper-style beaded dresses for instance), long before we even dreamed of the internet! Please ask if you are looking for something in particular, because I might have photos available even if such things are not included on the site.

Some clients - often those who work in the art world, or in design of some form are extemely good at collecting their ideas, connecting these to some piece of work I have done in the past. They produce informative mood boards, they are accepting of my advice and they are adept at making their minds up about what they want. These clients are lovely to work with and are very happy with their gowns!

And then there are the clients I should have refused to work with..... Fortunately, few and far between, but one difficult bride can be such a bad experience. A dozen lovely ones in a row can barely make up for the experience of the one who made me dread emails, answer-machines and fittings.

I think what has to be considered is that you have arrived at this site, and are considering commissioning me, because you like what you see. The designs on the site either represent exactly what you are looking for (about eighty percent of you), perhaps with a colour change here, fabric alternative there; or it somehow rings bells with you (the other twenty percent)- it gives a flavour of the kind of wedding gown you are looking for and gives you the confidence that I will be able to produce something to please you. If you have been gradually developing wedding gown ideas of your own over the preceding months, the consultation, when I first meet you, is a time for consolidation of ideas, a chance to see all fabric and trim possibilities and to generally fine-tune what you want for your wedding gown. Sometimes, clients quite honestly admit they don't know what they want, which I don't mind at all. After a couple of hours of trying on different shapes of corsets, skirts and gowns, we soon discover which shapes will potentially work. Then it is usually a case of looking through fabrics and this will often put the seal on the design. I often limit options to around three styles at this stage - I will send sketches and quotes to you after the consultation to consider at your leisure.

Clients who know their own minds, or who are honest that they really don't know what they want, but are willing to take the time to experiment, are quite enjoyable to work with. I often receive emails saying how much they enjoyed the "dressing up" session. These brides-to-be end up as VERY satisfied clients because they are open to possibilities.

Occasionally I come across clients (mainly brides) who want to have their own design followed, but cannot draw or express verbally their exact wishes. This can be because their ideas are not sufficiently clarified in their own heads. And occasionally they don't really wish to admit this to me or themselves. (I sometimes regret I did not do a degree in psychology!) What follows (and, thank goodness, it has only been rare) ends up being a kind of "piece-meal" design, where I am attempting to read a mind which doesn't actually know what it wants, or does not have the confidence to make a design decision and then take the responsibility for that decision. There can be a temptation to try to invent a wedding dress so different to any other gown ever invented that basic aesthetics are lost.

It is not always possible to design to order. Most of the gown samples shown on this site have been a LONG time in the planning. They may have started as 4.00am inspirations, but I am rarely in a position to follow through with a design idea immediately. How lovely that would be...! Months and even years, musing over the design, collecting complementary fabrics and trims - gathering and culling, experimenting, sketching with no pressure other than following my own enthusiasms, I'm sure these sample gowns are the better for it. The years of "brewing" are inevitable - I will always have more fresh ideas I wish to work on than the available time, so it can take YEARS before a gown escapes from my sketchbooks and notepads into reality. The "inspired whim" gowns are always the more successful designs in the long run. When I am asked to design to order "NOW" (or read the mind of someone who doesn't know what they DON'T want until they see it (!) it will never work as well. A recent bride who wished to design her own gown got so bogged down in the details that she hadn't even considered the overall gown colour- the most important part. When urged, that decision was made in a matter of minutes and was unwaivable. She wished to add and add to the gown and would not accept advice otherwise. As a young art student one of my tutor's most popular put-downs was to say a piece of work was "too convoluted". I'm afraid this too easily happens when a bride insists on free rein with her own design and will not take any advice. Do use me, please - I have years of experience and have usually met more gowns face-to-face than any client I meet!

NB. I would like to make it clear that:

Unreasonable demands or behaviour by the client or their accompanying partner (including late design changes and refusal to pay for said changes); will lead in the first place to my refusual to proceed with an order; and, if midst order, I will complete the contracted order but reserve the right to refuse to fit the client in person. This is in addition to the terms of business already supplied to all clients.

A final thought (or two):
The phone rang yesterday, "Where are you?" the caller barked. "I beg your pardon?" I replied, hoping to gain a little time: was this person sane or dangerous?!
"Where are you? You advertise; where are you based?"
"I'm in Norfolk, at present", I replied. They hung up.

Okay. Funnily, this is typical of many emails I receive, but over the phone the rudeness seems so much more obvious! Can I just suggest that a little bit more explanation (especially by email) of who you are, what you want and when you want it by would help me and help you. If the lady on the phone had given me a few more seconds, I would have had time to explain that all my office work and most consultations usually take place in Norfolk (Cambridgeshire border), but my theatre and bridal design work take me all over the country - in particular to London, Stratford, Cheltenham, and Birmingham. One of these might have been quite useful geographically to her!

Saying "You advertise", is also not much of a clue! I advertise in the "Dancing Times" as a tutu designer, in "Black Meringue" for 'alternative' wedding dresses, and cover both on the web-sites. I don't need a life story, but a reasonable amount of information - particularly by email - would be very useful. If you can tell me what you are interested in, where you will be travelling from (I will be able to estimate for you how long it will take you to meet me in various different places - including Norfolk!) And please let me know your timescales. I was recently asked if I "could make 14 royal blue tutus" for a vocational ballet school. Well, yes, I can. More than a week on, I am still trying to find out when they are needed for. In the mean time my diary is filling with individual orders.....

"Just wanted to say a HHHHUUUUGGGGGEEEEE thank you for my AMAZING dress! It's better than I could ever have imagined!" Claire

"The wedding went really well. I was told by numerous people that my dress was the most amazing wedding dress that they had ever seen, and I tend to agree ;) So thanks again!...Thanks again, and who knows, maybe I will get the chance to have another fabulous dress made sometime in the future". Wendy H.

"Through all my wedding dress research I just keep coming back to you! I absolutely adore your work." Alison F.

"I wanted to tell you how stunned I was by your designs. In trying to list a favorite example for you, I realized I couldn't single out one or two - I have FOUR favorites!...Thank you for bringing beauty and style back to the otherwise boring world of wedding gowns." Susan E.

"Hello from across the pond in Canada! I came across your site and the beautiful gowns pictured almost took my breath away. There is such meticulous attention to detail that your gowns are a work of art in and of themselves."Miriel D.WOW !

"Your tutus, costumes and gowns are absolutely fabulous.... I'm sure you have heard this time and time again, but WOW ! You are a true master. Beautiful absolutely beautiful. Your web page is truly inspirational." Joaney B.

"... was delighted at seeing samples of your designs. I LOVE the way you use colors, textures and fabrics. Simply delightful! Just what I¹m looking for...not the boring same old, same old stuff I have been seeing for so long. At last, something refreshing!" Robin O.

"I will never forget how superb I felt in the pink 'indira' design!" Martha C.

"The day went brilliantly and people were genuinely in awe of the dress – I’ve never received so many compliments! I really can’t thank you enough for all your hard work...Once again many thanks for all your help, it really did make my day having so many really amazing compliments about the dress – it even bought tears to my Dad’s eyes and I’ve not seen that in years!" Karen O.

"Thanks for all your inspiration at the fitting, I can't wait to see it finished!!!" Clare L.

"Our wedding was this last weekend - just had to let you know, the dress absolutely wowed the Italians - it looked just gorgeous!! I can't remember how many comments I got on it (most asking which Italian designer had designed it! :)) but it really was perfect! There are a lot of photos of the dress actually - people couldnt get over the style of it, or the color, or the material, etc etc - just blew them away!" Jane G.

"Thank-you for the wonderful dress that has brought my friends and I so much joy already! Everyone who has so far seen it has been suitably impressed and those who I have described it to are itching with excitement to see it!...You made a beautiful work of it and I hope you continue creating even more elaborate creations in the future! " Anna L.

"I just wanted to let you know it looked fabulous & everybody said they loved it". Yvonne H.

"Thanks again! you make a very good agony aunt too!" Victoria

"What absolutely stunning costumes you have made, they really are very beautiful." Elizabeth

"I really was not expecting the reaction of the men. I had to fight them off! I would like to thank you for an amazing different dress that just wowed everybody. It was worth the trips down." Angela F.

"wow..i cryed and jumped like a little exiting child (hihi) when i saw your weddingcostumes..i love them all". Marojke L.

"....absolutely stunned by your Pre Raphaelite influenced wedding dresses! Particularly the Accolade and Raffaela." Judith

"I've been searching for ages for a Custom designer to make my fairytale wedding dress and happened to come across your site. My eyes started filling up when on more than one pic I saw something that I would love to wear." Kerri

"Absolutely fabulous! sheer artistry ...well done!" Deborah T.

"Then, I stumbled upon your website and it was a real breath of fresh air. The dresses and costumes are stunning with innovative design and a real sense of history and beauty to them." Louise F.

"I love all of your gowns. The craftsmanship is exquisite, and I have never seen such quality dresses that are sewn to be historically accurate (with creative license)." Amanda W.

"Your work is the most amazing work sold online I have seen yet to date. You have beautiful color selections and you have been impecibly trained. I hate to see that someone said you were pricey." Shannah G.

"Many thanks for creating such a lovely dress, I have really enjoyed the process as well. I hope to have some good photographs from the ball to share with you when we return.

"The wedding was awesome, the dress went down an absolute treat, I loved it, he loved it in fact everyone loved it!...Thankyou very much for making the usual trauma of outfit hunting so pleasant!" Victoria A.

"Your dresses are absolutely gorgeous. I've never seen such a good quality of hand craftmanship short of costume designer of major budget movies ;)...Christina G.

"Thank you for my beautiful dress, I am so lucky to have found your web-site. I still cannot actually believe that I have my own handmade gown! It really is the stuff dreams are made of."

"..if you ever need a reference or testimonial I would be very happy to oblige - although I think the website itself is testimony to the quality of your work. Again, many thanks". Wendy

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